Epidendrum, Encyclia, and Prosthechea are a rewarding group for collectors who like something a little wilder looking than a classic moth orchid. They share a lot of the same care, but they don't all look the same — and that's part of the confusion. Whether you are new to this group or expanding your collection, this guide will help you give them the best possible care.

What Makes Epidendrum, Encyclia & Prosthechea Special? 🏆

These three genera are closely related members of the Cattleya family, and they have a tangled history. Encyclia was originally included in Epidendrum until William Jackson Hooker separated it in 1828, and Prosthechea was later separated from Encyclia based on morphological analysis.

That is why one plant can have three old names. Prosthechea cochleata, for example, was first known as Epidendrum cochleatum, later became Encyclia cochleata, and was finally transferred to Prosthechea in 1996. If you see an old label, it may still be correct — just under an older name.

Here's the quick way to tell them apart:

• Encyclia: Round, egg-shaped pseudobulbs topped with two or three thick leaves, and tall, branching spikes of spider-like, often fragrant flowers.
• Prosthechea: Similar pseudobulbs, but with distinctive upside-down flowers — the lip sits on top, not underneath. Prosthechea cochleata, the cockleshell orchid, is famous for this.
• Epidendrum: The most varied of the three. Many familiar types are reed-stemmed, with tall, cane-like stems, leaves all along the stem, and clusters of small, bright flowers. Some Epidendrum also have pseudobulbs — treat those like Encyclia.

Their culture is much like that of Cattleyas, which makes them a natural next step if you already grow cattleyas.

Light Requirements ☀️

All three need bright light — brighter than a regular Phalaenopsis, and equal to a Cattleya (which is quite high!).  Reed-stem Epidendrum especially need high light to stay compact and flower well; with too little light, the plant will become leggy and will not flower well, if at all.

For Canadian summers, Bright, indirect light with some morning sun is ideal. An east-facing window is a great spot, or a south-facing window with a sheer curtain to soften midday sun. Winter, as much sunlight as possible, and maybe supplementary light.  Leaves should be light to medium green. Very dark green, floppy growth usually means more light is needed.

Temperature & Humidity 🌡️💧

These are intermediate growers that do well in a normal home range of 16–28°C (61–82°F), with nights a few degrees cooler than days. That cooler night temperature can help trigger buds. Specific species or hybrids may have slightly different needs.

Humidity does not need to be high. 30–50% on average is fine. You don't need greenhouse humidity for these, which is why they make great household plants. (unless you're growing a miniature, which are great options for terrariums) — good air movement matters more than chasing a high humidity number. A small fan nearby helps, especially in winter when the air is dry and still.

Watering 💦

This is where the group splits a little, so check which type you have:

• Encyclia & Prosthechea (pseudobulb types): Water thoroughly, then allow the medium to dry slightly before watering again. They tolerate a brief dry period once established, and are much more tolerant of drying out than of sitting soggy. Water less in late fall and winter — for Prosthechea cochleata, far less water is needed in semi-dormancy, just enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling.
• Reed-stem Epidendrum: These like more water while growing. Keep them constantly moist but not soggy in spring and summer, then decrease watering in fall and winter, allowing them to dry out somewhat between waterings.

In all cases, use room-temperature water and let the pot drain fully. Pay attention to new growth, more water and fertilizer when actively growing.

Potting Mix & Repotting 🪴

A semi-coarse, fast-draining mix is ideal for Encyclia and Prosthechea — medium-grade orchid bark mixed with perlite and a little charcoal, often in a clay pot, which helps roots dry quickly. 

For reed-stem Epidendrum, a slightly finer, open mix works well — for example, fine and medium grade fir bark in almost equal volumes, with 15 to 20 percent coarse perlite.

Sphagnum moss also work for both as long as the moss is not too thick of a layer and is able to dry within the same period of time. This helps growers that are forgetful to water.  Self watering pot also works. 

Repot every 4+ years if you are using our high quality Orchiata bark, or when the mix breaks down and drains poorly. The best time is after flowering, or when new roots are just starting. 

Fertilizing 🌱

Feed when your plant is actively growing — typically when a new growth is developing. We recommend MSU & Marphyll rotation in low dosage every other watering and allow water flushing in between.

Reduce or stop feeding when growth slows in fall and winter.

Frequently Asked Questions 👇

Why does my plant have three different names? It probably hasn't changed — the taxonomy has. Many plants sold as Epidendrum or Encyclia are now Prosthechea, and older labels are still floating around. Check the current name, but don't worry if an old tag says something different.

Can they rebloom on old spikes? It depends. Encyclia generally bloom from a new, mature pseudobulb, not an old spike — leave the old pseudobulb, as it still stores water and energy. Prosthechea cochleata is the exception to watch for: it blooms sequentially off each inflorescence, so do not cut the spike until it has finished blooming, even as individual flowers fade. Reed-stem Epidendrum often produce new growths that will bloom in turn, and may also produce keikis near the tips of old stems.

Why isn't mine blooming? Light is usually the first thing to check. If the plant looks healthy but never flowers, it likely needs brighter light. It also needs to be mature enough, and a cooler night temperature can help trigger buds.