Care & Culture Blog

Epidendrum, Encyclia, and Prosthechea are a rewarding group for collectors who like something a little wilder looking than a classic moth orchid. They share a lot of the same care, but they don't all look the same — and that's part of the confusion. Whether you are new to this group or expanding your collection, this guide will help you give them the best possible care.

What Makes Epidendrum, Encyclia & Prosthechea Special? 🏆

These three genera are closely related members of the Cattleya family, and they have a tangled history. Encyclia was originally included in Epidendrum until William Jackson Hooker separated it in 1828, and Prosthechea was later separated from Encyclia based on morphological analysis.

That is why one plant can have three old names. Prosthechea cochleata, for example, was first known as Epidendrum cochleatum, later became Encyclia cochleata, and was finally transferred to Prosthechea in 1996. If you see an old label, it may still be correct — just under an older name.

Here's the quick way to tell them apart:

• Encyclia: Round, egg-shaped pseudobulbs topped with two or three thick leaves, and tall, branching spikes of spider-like, often fragrant flowers.
• Prosthechea: Similar pseudobulbs, but with distinctive upside-down flowers — the lip sits on top, not underneath. Prosthechea cochleata, the cockleshell orchid, is famous for this.
• Epidendrum: The most varied of the three. Many familiar types are reed-stemmed, with tall, cane-like stems, leaves all along the stem, and clusters of small, bright flowers. Some Epidendrum also have pseudobulbs — treat those like Encyclia.

Their culture is much like that of Cattleyas, which makes them a natural next step if you already grow cattleyas.

Light Requirements ☀️

All three need bright light — brighter than a regular Phalaenopsis, and equal to a Cattleya (which is quite high!).  Reed-stem Epidendrum especially need high light to stay compact and flower well; with too little light, the plant will become leggy and will not flower well, if at all.

For Canadian summers, Bright, indirect light with some morning sun is ideal. An east-facing window is a great spot, or a south-facing window with a sheer curtain to soften midday sun. Winter, as much sunlight as possible, and maybe supplementary light.  Leaves should be light to medium green. Very dark green, floppy growth usually means more light is needed.

Temperature & Humidity 🌡️💧

These are intermediate growers that do well in a normal home range of 16–28°C (61–82°F), with nights a few degrees cooler than days. That cooler night temperature can help trigger buds. Specific species or hybrids may have slightly different needs.

Humidity does not need to be high. 30–50% on average is fine. You don't need greenhouse humidity for these, which is why they make great household plants. (unless you're growing a miniature, which are great options for terrariums) — good air movement matters more than chasing a high humidity number. A small fan nearby helps, especially in winter when the air is dry and still.

Watering 💦

This is where the group splits a little, so check which type you have:

• Encyclia & Prosthechea (pseudobulb types): Water thoroughly, then allow the medium to dry slightly before watering again. They tolerate a brief dry period once established, and are much more tolerant of drying out than of sitting soggy. Water less in late fall and winter — for Prosthechea cochleata, far less water is needed in semi-dormancy, just enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling.
• Reed-stem Epidendrum: These like more water while growing. Keep them constantly moist but not soggy in spring and summer, then decrease watering in fall and winter, allowing them to dry out somewhat between waterings.

In all cases, use room-temperature water and let the pot drain fully. Pay attention to new growth, more water and fertilizer when actively growing.

Potting Mix & Repotting 🪴

A semi-coarse, fast-draining mix is ideal for Encyclia and Prosthechea — medium-grade orchid bark mixed with perlite and a little charcoal, often in a clay pot, which helps roots dry quickly. 

For reed-stem Epidendrum, a slightly finer, open mix works well — for example, fine and medium grade fir bark in almost equal volumes, with 15 to 20 percent coarse perlite.

Sphagnum moss also work for both as long as the moss is not too thick of a layer and is able to dry within the same period of time. This helps growers that are forgetful to water.  Self watering pot also works. 

Repot every 4+ years if you are using our high quality Orchiata bark, or when the mix breaks down and drains poorly. The best time is after flowering, or when new roots are just starting. 

Fertilizing 🌱

Feed when your plant is actively growing — typically when a new growth is developing. We recommend MSU & Marphyll rotation in low dosage every other watering and allow water flushing in between.

Reduce or stop feeding when growth slows in fall and winter.

Frequently Asked Questions 👇

Why does my plant have three different names? It probably hasn't changed — the taxonomy has. Many plants sold as Epidendrum or Encyclia are now Prosthechea, and older labels are still floating around. Check the current name, but don't worry if an old tag says something different.

Can they rebloom on old spikes? It depends. Encyclia generally bloom from a new, mature pseudobulb, not an old spike — leave the old pseudobulb, as it still stores water and energy. Prosthechea cochleata is the exception to watch for: it blooms sequentially off each inflorescence, so do not cut the spike until it has finished blooming, even as individual flowers fade. Reed-stem Epidendrum often produce new growths that will bloom in turn, and may also produce keikis near the tips of old stems.

Why isn't mine blooming? Light is usually the first thing to check. If the plant looks healthy but never flowers, it likely needs brighter light. It also needs to be mature enough, and a cooler night temperature can help trigger buds.

Brassocattleya Care Guide 🌱

Brassocattleya, often shortened to Bc., are a rewarding group within the Cattleya family. With their large, showy blooms, frilly lips, and often wonderful fragrance, these orchids are a favourite among collectors who want something a little bolder than a classic moth orchid. Whether you are new to cattleyas or expanding your collection, this guide will help you give your Brassocattleya the best possible care.

What Makes Brassocattleya Special? 🏆

Brassocattleya are a hybrid between Brassavola and Cattleya — so they bring together the best of both parents. From Brassavola, often Brassavola nodosa, they get vigour, heat tolerance, and that famous evening fragrance. From Cattleya, they get large, round, colourful flowers with a showy, frilled lip.

Unlike a Phalaenopsis, Brassocattleya grow from pseudobulbs, which store water and help the plant handle a dry spell. Each mature new growth can produce a flower spike, and many varieties are sweetly scented, especially in the evening — a nod to their Brassavola parentage.

Light Requirements ☀️

Brassocattleya need much brighter light than a regular Phalaenopsis. Bright, indirect light with some direct morning sun is ideal. An east-facing window, a shaded south-facing window, or a west window usually works well at home.

High light is required for best flowering, ideally bright, filtered sun for several hours a day. Leaves should be a light to medium green. Very dark green leaves usually mean the plant needs more light, and it may grow well but not bloom.

Temperature & Humidity 🌡️💧

These are intermediate to warm-growing orchids. Day temperatures from 70 to 85°F (21–29°C), dropping 10 to 15°F at night, suit most Brassocattleya well. That day-to-night drop helps encourage flower buds.

Maintain humidity around 50% to 70%. Good air movement is just as important as humidity — stagnant, damp air is what leads to rot and fungal problems, so a small fan nearby goes a long way.

Watering 💦

Water thoroughly, then allow the potting media to dry out almost completely between thorough waterings. Brassocattleya are much more tolerant of drying out than of sitting soggy, which will quickly lead to root rot.

Water in the morning when you can, use room-temperature water, and always let the pot drain fully. Water less often in winter or when the plant is not actively growing.

Potting Mix & Repotting 🪴

A coarse, fast-draining mix is ideal — medium-grade orchid bark mixed with charcoal and perlite works well. Repot every 2 to 3 years, or when the mix breaks down and drains poorly, or when the rhizome starts growing over the edge of the pot.

The best time to repot is after flowering, when new roots are just starting. Don't be in a rush to divide — a plant generally should have at least six mature pseudobulbs before dividing, with 3 to 5 bulbs per division.

Fertilizing 🌱

Feed your Brassocattleya when it's actively growing — typically when a new growth is developing. We recommend MSU & Marphyll rotation in low dosage every other watering and allow water flushing in between.

Reduce or stop feeding when growth slows in autumn and winter.

Frequently Asked Questions 👇

Can Brassocattleya rebloom on old spikes? Not like Polychilos do. Brassocattleya don't rebloom on an old flower spike, and an old pseudobulb won't flower again. Each bloom comes from a new, mature growth, so the goal is healthy new growths each year. Once flowers fade, you can remove the spent spike, but leave the pseudobulb — it's still storing water and energy for the plant.

Why isn't my Brassocattleya blooming? Light is usually the first thing to check. If the leaves are dark green and the plant looks healthy but never flowers, it likely needs brighter light. Make sure it's also getting that cooler night temperature, and that it's not being kept constantly wet.

If you have questions or want to share your Brassocattleya blooms, join our group on Facebook, Canadian Orchid Growers.

Polychilos Phalaenopsis, sometimes known as “summer-blooming phals,” are a unique and rewarding group within the Phalaenopsis family. With their lush, broad leaves and long-lasting, often fragrant blooms, these orchids are a favourite among collectors who want something a little different from the classic moth orchid. Whether you are new to orchids or expanding your collection, this guide will help you give your Polychilos the best possible care.

Meet the stunning Phragmipedium – the New World's answer to slipper orchids. These captivating plants stretch across Mexico, Central and South America, earning their "slipper" nickname from the distinctive pouched lip that gives each flower its signature look.

What Makes Phragmipediums Special?

Phalaenopsis orchids, also known as moth orchids, are one of the most popular orchid varieties due to their beautiful flowers and ease of care. With the right conditions and attention to detail, you can enjoy these stunning plants for years to come.

Important: Before reading this guide, ensure your orchid is a Phalaenopsis subsection Phalaenopsis and NOT Phalaenopsis subsection polychilos orchid as they have different cultural requirements. 

Paphiopedilum subgenus Polyantha is a subdivision within the genus Paphiopedilum. This group of lady slippers is particularly characterized by their ability to carry multi-floral inflorescences. They are native to various regions of Asia, including China, India, Southeast Asia, and the Indonesian archipelago, where they thrive in humid forest environments.