Quick Facts

• Growth Style: Deciduous, sympodial (grows in segments, drops leaves in fall)
• Native Range: Central & South America, often in warm, monsoonal forests
• Blooming: Male and female flowers, sometimes both on the same plant—look wildly different!
• Rest Period: Strong dormancy after leaf drop

Light Requirements ☀️

• Active Growth: Needs bright, moderate direct light. An east-facing window is ideal; south-facing works, if mindful of the strongest summer months
• Grow Lights: 12–14 hours/day under strong LED or T5 lights.
• Leaf Color Guide: Healthy leaves are light-medium green. Very dark = too little light; yellowing with crisp spots = too much.
• Dormancy: Once leaves drop, light is less critical.

Temperature & Humidity 🌡️💧

• Daytime: 22–32°C (72–90°F)
• Night: 16–22°C (60–72°F)
• Humidity: 40–60% with steady air movement. Use a small fan if growing indoors. Low humidity may cause dew droplets on leaf. Shower the leaves if this is accumulating (weekly).
• Dormancy: Cooler temps (down to 15°C/59°F) are fine, and humidity can drop to as low as 25-30% which is great for our winter.

Watering 💦

• Active Growth (Spring–Early Fall):
  • Start Watering: When new shoots have roots at least 2–3 cm (1 inch) long.
  • Frequency: 2–3x/week or whenever the potting medium is just barely dry.
  • Water Quality: Use rainwater, distilled, or tap water with low mineral content.
• Transition to Dormancy:
  • Gradually reduce watering as leaves yellow and drop in fall.
  • Stop completely once all leaves are gone.
• Dormancy (Late Fall–Winter):
  • No regular watering! Only add a splash if pseudobulbs shrivel deeply.
  • Restart: Wait for new growth and visible roots before watering again.

Feeding 🌱

• During Growth: Fertilize every 1–2 weeks with a balanced orchid fertilizer (20-20-20 or similar).  Catasetums are high level feeders. Once experienced you can experiment to go above full dose during peak growth. 
  • Tip: Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt buildup.
• Dormancy: No fertilizer—plant is resting!

Potting & Repotting 🪴

• When: Winter to early spring, before or just as new roots appear.
• Potting Mix: Fast-draining—fine bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, or semi-hydroponic LECA.
• Pot Size: Just big enough for 1–2 years’ growth. Too large = soggy roots.
• Repotting Steps:
  1. Remove old medium and trim dead roots.
  2. Place plant so new growth is near pot edge (leaves room for expansion).
  3. Water lightly until roots establish.

Dormancy Explained 🍂

• Why Dormant? In the wild, Catasetums survive dry winters by dropping leaves and halting growth.
• At Home: Mimic this by reducing water and fertilizer to almost zero.
• What’s Normal: Bare pseudobulbs, no leaves, no roots—don’t worry, it’s alive!
• Restart: When you see new growth and roots, resume watering and feeding.

Common Problems & Solutions

• Wrinkled Pseudobulbs:
  • During growth: Underwatering—water more frequently and provide a water reservoir if necessary
  • During dormancy: Mild wrinkling is normal; deep shriveling may need a splash of water. Ensure it is fully dry in 2-3 days. Repeat if necessary
• Rotting Bulbs/Roots:
  • Usually from overwatering or stale potting mix. Repot in fresh, airy medium.
• No Flowers:
  • Not enough light, or didn’t follow dry dormancy. Compare your bulbs to the previous bulbs. The newer bulb should be bigger or comparable. If it's getting smaller it's missing in culture.
• Pests:
  • Watch for spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. Treat promptly with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Dew drops on leaf may attract pests.

Beginner FAQ ❓